A Semi-Irregular Review of Coffee In The District

Robert's latest review. All of his reviews are listed under "Robert's Favorites", located in the left margin.

My original plan when starting this column was to focus solely on coffee within the District’s borders. However, I decided to break my own rule when a friend of mine tipped me to Grape and Bean, a coffee shop that recently opened in Old Town Alexandria. The reason for venturing out to a red state? A very good one: The Clover, a new coffee machine that has been the talk of the coffee circuit over the past year.

Imagine a sleek, box-like stainless steel contraption that brews one cup of coffee at a time tailored to the exact specifications of the barista, giving each serving a personalized touch. More important than that, the Clover delivers what may be the most flavor rich way to brew coffee. Similar to a French press, the grounds first steep in hot water. Instead of wire-screened plunger separating the extracted grounds from the drink, a high power vacuum device sucks the water through the coffee grounds, allowing the essential oils from the beans to make it into the cup, preventing entrapment by a filter. While espresso usually takes center stage for barista theatrics in serious coffee shops, the Clover revives the elegant, sensual experience that is lost behind the curtain of typical drip brewing methods.

The mission to lose my Clover virginity began on a rather busy Friday afternoon when I jetted out of the office early (for a doctor’s appointment, of course) to meet a friend who works out in Alexandria. We arrived at Grape and Bean around 3pm. The shop sells wine (hence the name) and cheese, but the coffee bar takes center stage. We grabbed two stools at the bar and David the owner and head barista made us instantly feel at home. He gave us a menu listing the different bean selections from Durham’s heralded Counter Culture coffee. Part of the beauty of the Clover is that you choose the exact beans you want to try, rather than having to drink whatever coffee of the day is stewing in the communal pot.

Grape and Bean offers two options: a 6 oz sample or a 14 oz full serving. I am a fan of the former since it allows you to taste a couple of different beans without going into a complete caffeine spazz. I started off with La Golondrina Microlot, a Colombian coffee from a small mountain town named Paez. The nuance in the drink was instantly apparent. Think of a complex bean made with a French Press, but without the fine grinds that distract your taste buds. The Microbot was full bodied with an intricate, highly acidic flavor, releasing mild hints of caramel, walnuts, and marshmallow. It was consistent from start to finish. As a follow up, I had the Gaturiri Lot, a Kenyan roast that was attentive and smooth. It had less body and acidity than the Microbot, but more pronounced flavors like currant and spice. I definitely preferred the Mircobot, but the Gaturiri Lot provided the perfect contrast with its vibrant aftertaste.

We stuck around the shop for awhile, talking with David about the coffee industry and his vision for the store. He hopes that the unique brewing method, personalized servings, and high quality beans will engender a community atmosphere where neighbors can gather and indulge. David’s enthusiasm was contagious and his warm personality will remind you of your favorite bartender.

At present, Grape and Bean is home to the only Clover in the region. At roughly $11,000 a pop, don’t expect to see these popping up all over the place. There are some rumblings that Starbucks is testing out Clovers in a few markets to see if they will attract business from the more serious coffee drinkers. I have mixed feelings on that, but will hold off judgment until I see how it plays out. Until then, Grape and Bean has a regional monopoly on this holy grail, and you fellow city dwellers will be glad you made the journey to Old Town. Tell Dave I sent you.

Grape and Bean: 118 South Royal Street Alexandria, Virginia 22314